BYLIZZIEJOHNSONANDLAURENTIERNEYINMCAFFEKNOB,VA.Hikingtheever-evolvingAppalachianTrailroBerTf.BUkATy/APThemorningfoghadjustbeguntoclearasthehik-ersmadetheirwayuphill,beckonedbyaseriesofwhiteblazessplashedonthetrunksofhardwoodandtallpine,thepaintcrackedwherethebarkrippledandwhorled.Itwasaweekdayinmid-MayontheAppalachianTrail,andtheirfootstepsweremuffledbytheforest.Awaytheyhiked—fromthecrampedparkinglotglitteringwithvehicles,fromthefreneticbuzzofhighwaytraffic,fromthebusynessandanxietythatcompelpeopletostepoutoftheirlives,ifonlyforafewhours,andescapeintothewilderness.Here,onwhateveryonecallstheA.T.,itwasquieter.Theleavesontheoakswerepearledwithrain.Mushroom...