BYREISTHEBAULTLaHaiNa,Hawaii—FromthedeepbluewateroffMaui,youcansmellwhatremainsofthisstill-smolderingbeachtownbeforeyoucanseeit.onshore,thedestructioniswidespread,neartotal.Rowsofwood-framedbuildings,entireneighborhoods,reducedtopilesofash.Thetwistedshellsofburned-outgetawaycars,stuckinapermanenttrafficjam.Banyantreesblack-enedandstripped.Andeverywhere,thescentofsmoke.ThewildfirethatsparkedTuesdaynight,pro-pelledbyhurricanewindsandfueledbymonthsofdrought,sweptoverthewesternmostswathofMauithisweek,destroyingthousandsofbuild-ingsandkillinganuntoldnumberofpeople.AsofFridayafternoon,theofficialtollstoodat67—whichthoseherebelieveisadramaticunder-countthatwil...